In the heart of Romagna, nestled amongst the green hills of the Casentinesi Forests National Park, there is a magical place where time seems to flow to the rhythm of the crystal-clear water. A little corner of paradise that few people know about – even amongst the locals of Romagna – and which the prestigious Financial Times has included it amongst the best unspoilt spots for swimming in Italy: the The Howling Cave by Premilcuore.
At about 40 km from Forlì, along the road leading to Florence, the River Rabbi carves its way through the rock and plunges impetuously into a deep, semi-open cavity, creating a spectacular waterfall that ‘screams’ amongst the cliffs, amplified by the natural acoustics of the gorge. The roar of the water is so intense that this evocative spot has been christened the ‘Grotta Urlante’ (Screaming Cave).
Beneath the ancient 17th-century humpback stone bridge – which seems to pierce the sky with its elegant arch – over the centuries, the river’s waters have carved out three splendid natural pools:
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the first, which is wide and deep, ideal for those who love diving;
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the second, which is smaller and circular, perfect for relaxing;
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The third one, as large and clear as a small lake, is suitable even for the youngest children.
Here, the rocks, smoothed by millennia, become comfortable natural sunbathing spots to lie on, whilst the emerald colour of the water invites you to take a dip and let the current carry you away.
An oasis of peace amidst nature and history
As well as its natural charm, the Grotta Urlante also tells stories of times gone by: next to the bridge lie the remains of the ancient fulling mill, where woollen cloth was once processed and then left to dry in the sun. The whole landscape has an almost fairy-tale-like atmosphere, with the sound of water echoing amongst the trees in the park.
From here, following the course of the river, you can discover other wonders:
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the Sega Waterfall, a particularly spectacular double waterfall;
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the Small saw, smaller but just as charming.
The surrounding trails are perfect for exploring on foot, on horseback (thanks to the Ridolla farm holiday accommodation, which organises horse riding excursions about 2 km from the cave) or with your four-legged friends.
How to get there
Getting to the Grotta Urlante is easy:
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Follow the SP3 (formerly SS 9 ter) from Premilcuore towards Florence.
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After a few kilometres, you’ll come across the sign for the hamlet Giumella.
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Immediately afterwards, on the left, there is a large open area where you can park your car (GPS coordinates: 43.9671, 11.7614).
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From here, continue on foot towards the New Bridge and, just before you reach it, take the path on the left: in a couple of minutes you’ll find yourself in front of the Grotta Urlante.
Useful tips for the visit
- Wear walking boots or at least shoes with rubber soles: the riverbed is slippery and the rocks can be sharp. Avoid flip-flops and sandals.
- Do bring a raincoat, a sun hat and plenty of mineral water with you.
- Pack a packed lunch and remember to take all your rubbish back with you: we must protect nature.
- If you can, visit the cave during the week to avoid the crowds that are typical on summer Sundays.
- No mobile signal: always let someone know your plans before setting off.
An experience not to be missed
The Grotta Urlante is not just a place to cool off on hot summer’s days, but a well-rounded experience combining nature, history and relaxation. A dip in the icy, crystal-clear waters of the River Rabbi will leave you feeling energised and with a sense of absolute freedom.
If you have a few extra days, make the most of them to explore the Casentinesi Forests National Park: visit the Sanctuary of La Verna, nestled in a centuries-old forest of firs and beeches, or the ancient Hermitage of Camaldoli, founded in 1012 by Saint Romuald.
