Pavaglione
An imposing quadriportico measuring approximately 100 metres on each side – equivalent to one hectare – situated opposite the Rocca Estense, the Pavaglione was built in 1570 at the behest of Duke Alfonso II d’Este, who ordered the demolition of the surrounding fortifications in order to create a space dedicated to the weekly market[120]. The first loggia built provided shelter for both troops and merchants, but over time its commercial function came to take precedence over its military one. The site became famous for its silkworm cocoon market, so much so that it was originally called the ‘Padiglione de’ folicelli da seta’, then ‘Paviglione’, and finally ‘Pavaglione’. The term, in fact, refers to an enclosed, covered space intended for the sale of cocoons. Driven by the prosperity of the silk trade, the people of Lugo decided to build a permanent structure dedicated exclusively to this activity.
Built in several stages, there was only one portico until 1780. In that year, the town council approved the extension of the structure. The project, entrusted to the Ferrara-based architect Giuseppe Campana, involved the addition of three new porticoes to flank the existing one. Drawing inspiration from the architectural models of classical antiquity, Campana designed two long, single-aisle loggias (on the north and south sides) and a short, double-aisle loggia (on the west side), duplicating the aisle on the east side for consistency. The arches were set ‘on square-based pilasters, joined by a simple cornice and divided in their continuity by pediments with rectangular pilasters (two on each side in the longer porticoes), consisting of a wider arch flanked by two smaller architraved openings, with panels above’[121]. On the western side, an attic was erected, surmounted by a majestic cornice that dominated the entire market square. The new Pavaglione was inaugurated in September 1783, to coincide with the Fair[122].
The commemorative plaque dedicated to the legate from Ferrara, Cardinal Francesco Carafa di Traetto, reads:
(Latin)
‘The busiest market in Italy’
a portico with narrow passageways and temporary stalls
neither sufficiently suitable for traders nor safe for goods
Cardinal Franciscus Carafa of Naples and Ferrara, Legate
nor anything for future negotiators
by expanding the town and embellishing the town hall
at last, the confluence would be of no use
formerly a largely empty and abnormal area
in this Augustan style, with porticoes and ornamentation
stationary soldier
‘enlarged and subscribed by Ascia in the year MDCCLXXXIII’(Italian)
‘One of the busiest markets in Italy’
Because of the narrowness of the portico and the temporary shops
not particularly suitable for merchants, nor safe for goods
Cardinal Francesco Carafa, a native of Naples, Legate to Ferrara
so that, in future, nothing would be lacking when the merchants called
to the development of trade and the beautification of the municipality
and, finally, for the convenience of all those concerned
from the completely empty and uneven area
restored to this majestic form, complete with porticoes and decorative features
add a guard to stand watch
‘enlarged it and dedicated the new, intact building in the year 1783’
(Dedicatory plaque on the Pavaglione)
A rare example of 18th-century civil architecture, the Pavaglione foreshadows modern urban planning principles. Its arcades still house numerous commercial premises today. The eastern side, which is the oldest, was demolished and rebuilt in 1867 to bring it into line with the other sides. The decorations were entrusted to the Bolognese painter Luigi Samoggia, who also oversaw the ornamentation of the rectangular windows, the design of the parapet and the pediment, which is decorated with the city’s coat of arms. He was also responsible for the overall colour scheme. In 1895, a mechanical clock was installed, the work of the Bolognese master Clodoveo Franchini; it is still in working order today (restored in 2008).
In 1917, two marble plaques were added to the western loggia in memory of Cesare Battisti and Guglielmo Oberdan[124]. Between 1910 and 1937, a monument dedicated to Mazzini and Garibaldi was also erected in the centre of the square.
Rossini Theatre
Built in 1758 to a design by the architect Francesco Ambrogio Petrocchi, with subsequent alterations by Antonio Galli Bibiena, the Teatro Rossini was inaugurated on 15 August 1761 with a performance of Pietro Metastasio’s *Catone in Utica*[125]. It is a typical Italian-style theatre with four tiers of boxes and a gallery. Named after Gioachino Rossini in 1859, it suffered severe damage during the Second World War but was restored and reopened in 1986.
Palazzo Trisi
This elegant 18th-century palace, designed by Cosimo Morelli, was built to house the state schools and the Trisi College. The latter was established in accordance with the last will and testament of the nobleman Fabrizio Trisi (1580–1630), who bequeathed part of his estate and his residence to the foundation of a college for deserving young people[126], entrusting its management to the municipality. Initially housed in the building on Via Codalunga (now Via Matteotti), it awarded degrees in law and, from 1706, also in philosophy[53]. In 1760, the College was merged with the public schools and a decision was taken to construct the present building, with work being completed in 1774. The College’s law library became a municipal library under French rule and was opened to the public in 1803.
Villa Malerbi
A former country residence of the Malerbi family, built in the early decades of the nineteenth century, it was donated to the local council by Pietro Malerbi in 1949 on the condition that it become the home of the town’s music school. Since 1950, it has in fact been home to the ‘Giuseppe and Luigi Malerbi’ State-recognised Music Institute, initially directed by Luigi Penazzi. In the 1910s and 1920s, the institute was directed by the renowned composer Francesco Balilla Pratella. The “Malerbi Collection”, which comprises the brothers’ sheet music and documents, is held at the Municipal Library. The villa was restored and reopened in 2012.
Monument to Francesco Baracca
Opened in 1936, it is dedicated to the flying ace Francesco Baracca, a native of Lugo. The work, created by the Faenza-born sculptor Domenico Rambelli, features a bronze statue of the pilot standing next to an enormous travertine wing 27 metres high.
Porta San Bartolomeo
Dating back to the Middle Ages, the gate takes its name from its proximity to a chapel dedicated to Saint Bartholomew. The exact date of its construction is unknown.
Jewish cemetery
The first Jewish cemetery, in use from the 15th century, was situated near the ghetto, between what are now Viale Masi and Viale Dante. When it became too small, it was replaced in the 18th century by a new, larger site. With the urban expansion of the nineteenth century, the cemetery was moved to its current location on Via di Giù in 1877. Jewish emancipation and urbanisation encouraged migration to large cities. The cemetery, which now belongs to the Jewish Community of Ferrara, is still in use and open to visitors.
Palazzo Drei
A stately home belonging to a family of the Lugo upper middle class, the building was owned by the daughter of the industrialist Arrigo Foschini and Dr Giulio Drei, a local GP. Following Drei’s death, the building fell into disrepair and was subsequently purchased by the fashion designer Angelo Cairoli.
Estense Fortress
The Rocca Estense The Rocca Estense is the city’s most distinctive monument. A fine example of fortified architecture, it was built on the site of an earlier fortress. The Este family modified and renovated it on several occasions: their work mainly concerned the bastions and the reinforcement of the towers. The fortress still retains its mid-16th-century appearance, dating from the time of the Este family. Since 1847, the Este Fortress has housed the municipal administration offices.
